Upper Fridge Vent

The louvers of the upper vent were filled with white caulk.

Vent cleaned up pretty good!

All the red bondo filler you see on the cabinets are filled holes... It looked like a shotgun went off inside this thing when we brought it home!

This power outlett connected directly to the orange utility cord that was supplied. The original breaker box under the sink was so corroded and rusty that it was no longer being used.

The upper cabinets wer in such bad shape that I added some wood strips to the inside for strength. I expoy then clamp down to let them harden.

This is the water tank side bench after the repaint. It has the fewest holes in it.

There is also a power outlet box in the back end of this bench. But is was disconnected and had rust poring out of it.

Reinforcement wood added to upper cabinets.

Old Handle on in-side. was missing outside handle

No door handle on the outside. They were using pliers to open the door.

Sillicone over every Pop Rivit... Ugly!

Cleaned up rivets. After I strip the gelcoat and wax and restore the finish of the shell I will put new snap caps on all of the rivets.

The main cabinet getting painted.. Old cook top getting refurbished.

Rust Spot

Stress Cracking.... Epoxy and puddy!

Painted over rusty hardware....

Cleaned up all the hardware for the table and repainted with special "Kills" White paint. Used all new Stainless Steel screws to re-install parts.

Installing new front wall carpet.

New door fronts not yet painted.

This picture shows the refurbed iron supports (Now white) and the new outlet. This was taken in 2008. As of spring 2009 there is a new power distrobution center installed here.. That outlet is now powered by a 400/800W Inverter mounted under sink. The inverter is connected directly to the battery on the toung. There is a 12V relay on a switch that is under the sink to turn it on and off. It can be used when we are connected to shore power or not.

Before!

After Polishing (Copper Wire brush on Drill)

Built my own converting bunk bed as I could not get the parts or the plans at the time from anywhere. Added a folding rail for my Daughter.... Folds back under the coushin... You can barly feel it when sitting on the couch.

Ahhh.. The SaniPotty!

Threshold..... Seals thebottom of the door... Had a 2" gap before!

Computer Case

Old computer I took the cover off of.

Custom Oak cab incert..

Mr... Heater... Buddy! With filter

Computer case cut, and bending on my bench...

Two holes for small 12V Fans

High Temp Black Paint!

Had to add an extra Bend for better air flow.

Old PC now a custom forced air no vent furnace.... Also can run without the fans... No noise....

This hood.. was from a 1971 camper.. Was a silky puke green... was all bent up.. Spent about 3 hours restoring it.. Also repainted black. Cut a hole for a 12V fan and added a rocker switch to the side... It is now a power vent...

Tired of the burner "Thingys" falling off and moving around when moving... So I made some clips out of some Stainless I cust from a electrical cover palte... and painted... Dont move so much as a hair.... Also stainless screws.

Installed a lighter as well (Only works on one burner for now)

Future Home of new Atwood 6 Gal WaterHeater

The only pic i have ever seen of a 13' Scamp with a water heater had it stickin out the side.... As the boddy is tappered... and the heater.... well.... not tapperd. So I mafe a mockup out of wood and cardboard... Showed it to my wife....

Yeah..... well..... The recption was les than giddy... So I set to work on plan B... (Actualy like plan G2 as I had spend about 2 months trying to figure a way to make it work recesed)

Door hangin on mockup

Then it dawned on me.... Modify the Atwood... So Aluminum flashing here we come... Had to remove the mounting flange off both sides of the water heater..

Then I pre bent up a box that I could adjust out of ligher gage Aluminum flashing.. about 10" wide...

Then..... The moment of truth.... After measuring about 500 times... I did the deed.. about 11:30 PM I drilled the corners from the inside out.. Then Strait edged them on the out side... I used hack saw blades by hand without the saw and carfully cut out the hole... Quite possably the scaryest thing I have ever modified ;)

Made an extention to the vent...

Unit boxed in.. Notice that the box is not tappered.... The flashing was light enough gage to be shaped into place on installation...

Note the bottom flange still intact.

Forgot to get a photo of the hole before I slid it in.. I was in a hurry and the first time I went to slide it in, my hole was too small. That was better than to big. But here it is tucked in.. Nicely recessed.. Top is recessed almost 4"

You can see the recess here. Before the metal flashing was afixed.

The cut-out

I will post more pictures of the inside flashing work.. There is a trick to moving the door latch too.. After mounting the door a bit of force I was able to conture it to the shape of the boddy..

Use High TEMP RTV SILICONE to seal up ALL of the flashing and holes.. This is very important... Imagine you are sealing up the side of a boat! You do not want CO comming into your beed room in the night.

Vent Hood Vent... Had to modify it to make it work.

New water heater. There is about 3" of air space behind the heater for wire and plumbing. I use 3/8" Nylon tubing and I have found the quick connects work very well over compression fittings.

Several inches to spare.. About 3". I have not cleaned up the wires or plumbing yet.

The new 25AMP 4 Circut 12V, 3 Circut 110V WFCO Smart 3 Stage Converter/Charger... Installed!

There are 4 12V Circuts that will automaticly runn without interuption from either the battery or the converter if we are connected to shore power. The fuses have lights that come on to indicate a blown fuse. Each circut uses 10g AWG wire

Less than $100 New this is a GREAT controller. Works very well and uses 10Gage wires for all 12V circuts. Also has an LED for each ciruct if a fuse blows... Nifty!

New Cord Port! Not sure where to remount the Marker Light?

Rubber tape with white paint?

The previous owner had removed the furnace and covered the hole with some rubber tape.

Used plumbers Strap to fasten down the Atwood... Used Copper as it wont rust.

Picture of toung when I brought it home.

Temporary Hatch... the uglyness there is what I replaced. Planning on installing a lower Refridge Vent...

This little IceBox is in really bad shape. And was installed incorectly. (Spring 2009 IceBox was replaced with a new 3way fridge)

It took alot of sanding and polishing to restore these iron supports. They are now White... And look really nice!

That is a hole in the top...

I removed the power box and rebuilt it. Temporarly remounted it under the side seat... It has since been replaced with the new WFCO 25A Charge/Converter/Distrobution Panel. In this photo you can also see the (I dont know what they were thinking) Plumbing Job.... You cant see it behind the crusty drain hose but the City Water connection goes to both the hot and cold..

Water Tank Removed. Utility cord had been used to hack-rewire the rear lights. All of the marker lights wer disconnected..

The water Tank... Kida ugly from the outside. I soaked it in bleech for about 12 hours.. Its clean enough inside, for use.

The utility cord that was grafted onto the line power hookup. (15A Rated Cord on a 30A Service)

Solve-all for the stains.... Kills in a Can!

Cleand up Iron supports... All new hardware is Stainless Steel...

Installed one of these lights on each side of the upper cab.

Decited to cover rather than patch this hole in the closet. I plan on adding a 12V service outlet here in the future.

Curtains... From my old apartment.

Glued on some thin plywood to mount electrical stuff to. Also helps insulate the lower cabinets.

New gas line feeds the Mr. Heater Buddy on the other side. This is under the Cook Top.

Duct tape has many uses.... I love the stuff... But Electrical connections are not a place for it... Wirenuts with a little RTV silicone squirted in them work really well... And wont come off. Unless you want them to.

Temporary Power Switches... (Main lights, Water Pump, Inverter) (Spring 2009 - Replaced this with a nice panal with rocker switches.)

New Door Fronts.. Not yet painted

New floor and base trim. One was pre-painted...

Water Heater recess flashing. There is a stainless steel screw in the middle sealed with silicone. I did not have RTV at the time so I temp sealed it all with cheap bathroom calk. I will need to peel that all out and RTV it with Black Hi Temp stuff..

The flashing has a flange that is tec screwed into the boddy. I added a gasket to help with the wind on the door as I am flying down the hiway. It is mostly covering the screws. Also there is a bead of silicone laid inside the flange to seal it to the body.

Added a fancy proch light.

I have orderd new door hinge kits from Scamp. In the mean time these bolts hold the door on pretty well.

Replaced the old hard-line that ran all the way to the tank with a soft hose. The regulator was leaking so I replaced that as well. The hose connects to the hard line just on the boddy of the trailer. Makes hooking up the tank alot faster.

Bethel Ridge Rd Spring 2008 - 5,100 Ft Alt. You can see the old tail lights. This was the first real trip with our Scamp.

New Lights Scamp OEM New style with plate holders. These also have backup lights. I will later convert over to the 7 Connector from the truck to toung. I will employe the Tugs charge system so I can charge the Scamp as we cruise down the road. The 7Din will also give me backup lights..

Removed these old cursty things and installed new SCAMP OEM tail lights.

Refurbished door hinges

New Faucet, The hand pump is still hooked up for use if we have no power.

Cutout for outside shower.